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  1. #1
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    Powder Conversion Math

    By: one8nine

    get out a calculator and pen.
    oh and if you can get ethyl oleate get that too
    do not do this in your head guys punch every digit in, its too easy to screw up in your head, im killer in math but i still use the calc

    fina-
    1 cart = 2g
    out of 2g you get to keep 75% after you break down the cart into powder. well call this powder you get to keep A.
    2g x .75 = A
    if you have pure powder, not fina from pelets, obviously THAT number is a

    now lets make your gear 50mg/ml
    A / .05 = total mL = B
    what if you want 100mg/ml?
    A / .1 = total mL = B
    what if you want 250mg/ml?
    A / .25 = total mL = B
    what if you want 450mg/ml?
    A / .45 = total mL = B
    you get the pattern

    1g of powder takes up .75ml of space in your vial. call it C.
    A x .75 = C



    2% ba = B x .02 = D
    20% bb = B x .2 = E
    oil = B - (C + D + E) = F

    if you can get ethyl oleate-
    .5 x F = ethyl oleate
    .5 x F = actual oil

  2. #2
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    How to Properly Dose Your Drugs

    You need to look on your bottle or vial or amp, somewhere on the label it says something like 250mg/mL, 50mg/mL, 800mcg/mL, 30mcg/mL WHATEVER it is, this information is essential- its the consentration of your gear.

    mg or mcg:
    lets say you have 200mcg/ml clen .
    that means every mL contains 200mcg.
    so if you want 60mcg, you do: 60/200=0.3
    so that means 0.3mL of 200mcg/ml is 60mcg. got it?

    Okay, now iu:
    iu depends on how you mix it.
    usually iu drugs come in powder form.
    lets say you have 5000iu of powder-
    if you add 1mL of water to that its 5000iu/mL
    if you add 5mL of water to that its 1000iu/mL
    same math applies:
    to get 500iu out of a 5000iu/mL solution:
    500/5000=0.1mL

    Insulin Needles: Slin Pin
    for very small measurements you can use an insulin needle.
    if you get a u-100 needle, then 100units=1ml
    0.1mL=10 units
    500iu out of a 5000iu/mL solution is 10 units on an insulin needle

    This is why cc = mL:
    mL stand for millilitre
    mL = 1/1000 of a litre
    a litre is defined as a cubic decimeter
    so a litre is 10cmx10cmx10cm = 1000 cubic cm
    a decimeter is 10cm
    cc stands for cubic centimeter
    cc = 1/1000 of 1000 mL = mL

    1 mL = 1 cc = 1 cm3 = 40 drops
    1 g = 1000 mg
    1 mg = 1000 mcg
    1 cc (cubic centimetre) = 1 ml (milliliter ) these are volume measurements.
    A mg measures the dosage of the drug a mg = 1/1000 of a g (gram)
    1 mcg (microgram) = 1/1000 milligram
    An IU (International Unit) is a measurement of fluid
    So:
    10cc = 10ml
    Take Sust 250mg/ml = 250mg (The strength of the drug or dosage) per ml of fluid. So if you wanted to use 500mg this would require 2ml
    i understand how to dose for injections but what about liquid letro would you still use a syringe to dose but take orally of course or does it come with an eye drop type thing
    1 mL = 1 cc = 1 cm3 = 40 drops
    1 g = 1000 mg
    1 mg = 1000 mcg

    so to get 0.25mg of 2.5mg/mL letro you need 4 drops
    or use an oral syringe

  3. #3
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    Whitey's Easy Conversion Method:

    1. Start with a traditional recipe: (e.g. 20ml Test E 250 - with a 2/20 mix BA/BB)**
    (a) Determine solvent levels based on percentage of total volume
    (b) Determine how much powder is needed
    (c) Stop it already, that's all the math you need!!
    (d) No seriously, forget about powder density - you don't need it!!

    2. Key: Use a graduated cylinder for mixing your gear.
    --You can find a set online for a reasonable price. I recommend buying a good set - you get what you pay for.

    3. Weigh your powder and add to the cylinder.
    --I like to weigh it right in the cylinder.

    4. Add your solvents in the quantities you identified in Step 1.
    --Option: you can measure your solvents via syringe, or in larger batches, use the graduated cylinder markings to measure, and then add the powder second.

    5. Heat and dissolve.
    --You can actually use the microwave here, folks. I recommend adjusting the power setting and using small bursts. Don't nuke it, just warm it up, guys.

    6. Finally, add your oil.
    --But wait! How much oil, Whitey??? Well, that's the whole point actually - you don't need to know this. Simply fill to the total volume desired and you're done. You see what we did? No need to figure out how much oil the powder displaces - just displace it and be done with it. Powder density calculations are a thing of the past.

    --But what if I want to use 100% EO, instead of oil? That's just fine, with me, my friend. All you need to do is add the EO to total volume desired. Be sure the powder is dissolved before you make the final pour, as this will affect displa***ent.

    7. Heat again and sterile filter into a sterile vial.***

    8. Enjoy! You just brewed perfect gear with the greatest of ease.

    ----------------------------------------------------------------------

    *A more detailed overview of the brewing procedure for the novice brewer:
    Preparation:
    Start off by assembling your materials, and cleaning your workspace (use a sanitizer like clorox cleanup or antimicrobial sanitary wipes). You'll need to acquire benzyl alcohol (BA), benzyl benzoate (BB), grapeseed oil (or another good injectable oil like cottonseed, sesame, etc.), sterile sealed vials for holding your final product, 60cc syringe(s), 20ga needles for filtering, whatman .22 syringe filters for removing impurities from your solution, any other syringes/needles as you feel necessary for measuring out quantities of solvents, oil, etc. for your recipe, but I recommend a set of graduated cylinders for your projects, which will make many projects much easier, and as described above, take out much of the math from your recipe. Feel free to post threads to discuss any of these needed supplies, except the last one: hormone powders. Talk about where to find these is strictly against board policy.

    Basic Process:
    The basic process is quite simple. You first determine the recipe you will use. Second, combine your solvents (BA and BB) with your hormone powder, heat, mix, and dissolve. Next, you add the oil to the solution, heat, and mix. Now you sterile filter the solution into a sterile vial. That's it, you're done! Give the BA time to work its antimicrobial magic (at least 48-72 hrs.), and your final product is ready to inject .

    1. Determine the recipe you will use and weigh out your hormone powder.
    Every novice brewer always asks for a recipe for Test E, Deca , etc. We are going to jump you up the learning curve about 10 notches right now. You do not need a pre-made recipe. Repeat, you do not need a pre-made recipe. By the end of this section, you will be able to make your own recipes, using guidelines for solvent ratios (2%BA/20%BB) and hormone concentrations.

    Okay, now that you've got that down, choose your hormone concentration. Let's say you chose to make 100ml of Nandrolone Deca at 400mg/ml.

    Let's talk simple math. Remember there are 1,000mg in 1g. Here, you have 100ml of gear with 400mg per ml. So, to get the total amount of hormone needed, multiply 100 times 400, and you get 40,000mg. Which is how many grams? That's right - 40. So, first you need to weigh out 40g of nandrolone decanoate. You can weigh it in whatever vial, beaker, or graduated cylinder you will use for the conversion - just remember to tare the scale (zero it) before adding the powder.

    2. Combine your solvents (2%BA and 20%BB) with your hormone powder, heat, mix, and dissolve.
    We measure solvents by a percentage of volume. Quick math check: what's 1% of 100ml? That's right, 1ml. What's 2%? Yep, 2ml. 20%? Yessir, 20ml. Easy enough.

    Now, I've kept the math simple by starting with 100ml, but what if I'm making an odd amount, like say 40ml? Remember that you can convert a percentage by taking it back 2 decimal places and multiplying by that number. For example 100% = 1. You multiply 40ml by 1, you get 40 (100%), right? How about 20%? Multiply by 0.2. So, 40ml x 0.2 = 8ml. 2%? 40ml x 0.02 = 0.8ml. Easy enough.

    So, step 2 is to measure and add 2%BA and 20%BB by volume to your hormone powder. You can do this in an unsealed vial or beaker, or directly into your graduated cylinders, measuring your solvents with syringes (insulin pin for accurate BA measurement in smaller batches, and any suitable size of syringe you'd like for larger quantities of solvents).

    Again, assuming our above example, 100ml of Nandrolone Deca at 400mg/ml: we will add 2%BA and 20%BB by volume to the hormone powder, which equals 2ml of BA and 20ml of BB.

    Heat this mixture either in a hot water bath (saucepan of water on stove works fine) or by using short bursts in the microwave (8-10 seconds) and shaking between each one. Stir with a sterilized glass stirring rod, shake, or swirl along with the heat, until the powder is completely dissolved, then move to step 3.

    3. Add the oil to the solution, heat, and mix.
    This is where the graduated cylinder method shines. Once you've dissolved the powder in the solvents, all you have to do is add oil up to the graduation (marking) on the cylinder that represents the total volume of finished product you want to make. Here, we're making 100ml, so simply pour in grapeseed oil (or a low-viscosity oil of your choice) up to the 100ml mark in your cylinder. Then heat, using the method you chose in step 2, and stir with a sterilized glass stirring rod until the solution is thoroughly mixed and uniform. Then move to step 4.

    If you'd like to see the calculations that go into determining the amount of oil needed, read this:
    Start with your total finished product volume (100ml). Subtract the amount of volume your powder displaces (calculation: powder weight 40g x 0.85ml/mg (density multiplier) = 34ml displa***ent. Then subtract the BA (2ml) and BB (20ml). That leaves us with 44ml, our oil component.

    4. Sterile filter the solution into a sterile vial.

    5. Finishing the gear.
    Finally, you're almost done. I like to bring the whole solution back up to the hormone's melting point briefly and then let it slowly cool in the water bath for stability. This is an optional step, but I consider it essential in high concentration brews. Give your product 48-72 hours to cure. This will ensure your solution is holding properly, and that the BA has made your final product injection -safe.

    **Super-simplified explanation of the traditional recipe for the novice brewer:
    1. Let's assume we're making 20ml Test E @250mg/ml with the traditional 2%BA/20%BB mix (kickin' it old school):

    (a) Determine solvent levels based on percentage of total volume

    2%/20% means you'll need 0.4ml BA and 4ml BB.
    -- 2% of 20ml = 0.4ml (BA)
    -- 20% of 20ml = 4ml (BB)

    (b) Determine how much powder is needed

    --250mg/ml x 20ml = 5g Test E powder

    (c) That is all.

    (d) No really, that is all the math you need.

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    What to expect from EO

    There's been a lot of confusion over EO, and for good reason I think. There have been a wide mix of good and bad experiences with EO based brews. And while I've written some thoughts about this on several other boards, at length, I just recently shared these thoughts with a bro here at AR. I'm sure much of this has been said, but perhaps this can do some good in the way of setting expectations properly on what can be achieved with EO.

    Here's my theory on EO and prop, in a nutshell:

    It's not a silver bullet. People respond differently to prop than others. Some people are okay with it, some people not, some people really not.

    EO slows the release of prop into the system, and stabilizes the solution in the injection site. This helps prevent crashing, and reduces pain significantly by providing a smooth sustained release. But, bottom line, prop is still getting released in your system. Therefore, if you are super sensitive to prop, you'll still have some pain, although with a good formulation, it should be greatly reduced. If you're not very sensitive to prop, on the other hand, you may be able to run it painlessly, or even at very high concentrations, with the addition of EO. This is why you have such a variance of results being reported right now.

    I think most people would be able to tolerate a 50mg/ml viromone-type concentration pretty well. And if you're a sensitive type, I'd recommend starting there, or at 75mg. 100mg is a good place to start, from the standpoint that it is easier to add solvents to lower the concentration, than to go the other way. But, in a nutshell, EO improves pain by let's say 50 or maybe even 75%, but if prop absolutely kills you, maybe it will only maime you with EO. It's still very much an individual thing, dependent on the individual's response to a particular compound/ester, and the concentration at which that individual attempts to use that compound.

  6. #6
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    Whitey's Capping Method

    In keeping with my philosophy of developing the easiest possible methods to provide high quality, highly accurate finished products, this thread describes the easiest, most foolproof method I have developed for capping. Welcome, my friends, to the new school of capping powders. If any of you are familiar with my easy method for injectables, this is just a new application of the same concept.

    New-School Volume-Based Mixing System:

    What if I told you there is a way that you could forget entirely about powder and filler densities, and in fact, the only math calculation you'd need for the whole process is the # of mg per cap of active compound multiplied by the number 100, since you have 100 caps per tray? Well, that's exactly what I'm going to tell you, my friends. I'll walk you through the theory, or you can skip right ahead to the method, and I'll tell you exactly what to do.

    The Theory:
    In capping, we really have to accomplish one thing. Let's take a 50mg capsule of Clomifene Citrate as an example - our mission is to accurately get 50mg of Clomid in each capsule, and fill the rest of the cap with an inert substance (filler). Now it's the execution that gets complicated. In order to accomplish our task, we have to determine what percentage of the capsule's volume both the active compound and the filler occupy. To do this, you have to know the density of each powder - more specifically, the number of mg of each powder it takes to completely fill a capsule. Then you do some math based on those numbers to determine how much of each substance you must use, then measure them out, mix properly, and cap. And this is a perfectly fine and dandy way to make caps, and it's how I've done it for years. But it has the disadvantages of being time-consuming and overly complex for the novice capper. Not to mention it requires one to know how much of a certain compound fits into a capsule, which may require filling and weighing caps with sufficient accuracy to obtain that information.

    Let's simplify things. At the end of the day, what do you need to know? You simply need to know the amount of filler that fits into a cap, after your active compound has been addeed. It's difficult because the old method requires us to measure all of our ingredients by weight, then perform calculations to deal with volume/density issues. But what if we decided to measure our powder blends by volume, instead? See, the volume of compounds we add never changes (excepting tamping/packing issues, which we will discuss later). Only the weight of the powder used varies from powder to powder.

    The single constant in filling any container is VOLUME. And the volume of the bottom half of a Size 0 capsule is 0.65cc. This means that for every batch of 100 caps, you are limited to 65cc of total powder volume. Forget weight. Weight will be different for every powder. Volume is what we can count on.

    EZ 1-2-3 Method:
    1. Weigh your active compound (#mg/cap x 100)
    2. Pour into graduated cylinder
    3. Add filler to a fully settled volume of 65cc.


    The Method Explained:
    Use a 100ml graduated cylinder - I use a plastic one that I don't have to worry about breaking. Measure your active compound on an accurate scale. I mix one batch at a time, and the math couldn't be easier. Your formula: (#mg/cap x 100). Pour that powder into your graduated cylinder. Now, simply add the filler powder of your choice (although non-fluffy powders work best). Add up to 65cc, or a little past, and tap the cylinder on the counter to settle the powder. After 5-10 solid taps, you'll find that the powder is fully settled, and you can add or remove filler and tap again as needed to get exactly 65cc volume of fully settled powder.

    If you blinked, you missed it - because you are DONE. All that's left is to thoroughly mix the powder and cap it, but I'll include a complete discussion of the capping process for those who may find it useful.

    Overview:
    1. Gather supplies
    a. Capsule Machine and empty Size 0 gelcaps
    b. An accurate scale
    c. Mixing System supplies - at a minimum, I use a mortar/pestle and a round rubbermaid bowl with tight lid
    d. 100ml Graduated Cylinder
    e. Powders - actives and a good dense, free-flowing filler powder
    2. Measure out your powder using Whitey's Volume Method as discussed above
    a. Weigh your active compound (#mg/cap x 100)
    b. Pour into graduated cylinder
    c. Add filler to a fully settled volume of 65cc.
    3. Mix powder evenly using one of the powder mixing methods
    4. Fill capsules using tapping, not tamping, to settle the powder

    Supplies Needed:

    1. Capsule Machine (see discussion below) and empty gelcaps
    2. Scale/scales - Really, to cap accurately over the long run, dealing with low mg-dosed compounds, it's best to own a scale accurate to .01g. I have a .01g that handles up to 100g, and a .1g accurate scale with a 500g capacity, which allow me to tackle any project I can think of. Scale retailers:
    3. A Mixing System (see discussion below) - some examples are mortar and pestle, coffee grinder, tumbler, or shaking system.
    4. 100ml Graduated Cylinder - I understand there is some concern about the accuracy of cheaper graduated cylinders, and that you get what you pay for. Honestly, I believe the better plasticware is more than adequate for the purposes of measuring powder volume for capsules, and encourage using unbreakable cylinders so you can really tap them well to settle the powder.
    5. Powders - active compounds and fillers. We'll talk about fillers of course, but please don't ask where to get hormone powders and such in this thread. It's against the rules, and a threat to board safety.

    Capsule Machines:
    I've recommended purchasing a good quality manual capsule machine that fills 100 caps at a time. I feel that it is by far the best bang for the buck capper. It's disadvantages: Like all manual cappers, it does require you to manually pull apart the empty capsules and place them in the trays, but unlike the "Cap 'm' Quik" - it does actually join the caps for you. It loses a tiny bit of powder when you turn the trays vertical to join the caps, but it's manageable, and if you have the inclination, you can modify the capper (as described elsewhere by SV-1) to solve the problem. Advantages: more caps per tray = more efficiency, and best of all, the math is kept so simple you can do it all in your head.

    Mixing Systems:
    There are many ways to mix your blended powder. I'll just try to cover the advantages and disadvantages of each.

    1. Mortar/Pestle - Geometric Dilution Method
    Advantages: Old school grinding and mixing at its finest. Compounding pharmacies still use this method, and with geometric dilution, it's considered a highly accurate mixing method.

    **Geometric Dilution means you start with a 1:1 ratio of active compound to filler, and you mix it with the mortar and pestle. Then, you add another part filler equal to the amount of powder already mixed. You keep doing this, the amount being added increasing geometrically, until finally, all the filler is added and powder mixed evenly.

    A final advantage is that the mortar and pestle easily takes care of any lumps in your active powder that could affect dosing, and it helps break up more granulated powders and/or fillers, bringing them closer to the same particle size.

    Disadvantages: Powder tends to stick in the grooves in the bowl on many mortar/pestle units, and since it starts sticking at the very beginning of the process, where the active compound % is higher, there may be some wasted compound and resulting underdosing of compound. Obviously, this is more significant in lower-dosed compounds than in higher, where it is of fairly minor concern.

    Another disadvantage is that the mortar and pestle/geometric dilution method can be fairly slow and may be considered cumbersome in comparison to some of the more hands-free methods.

    2. Shaking Methods
    Some people just put the powder in a ziploc bag or other container and shake.

    Advantages: Well, overall the method is simple and easy. And given enough time and friction of particles moving past each other, it might be reasonably accurate.

    Disadvantages: But, likely this method on its own will not lend the level of mixing accuracy we'd like to see. Nor will it do anything about any small clumps that might exist in the powder.

    Bottom Line: It may be useful, however, in conjunction with other methods. If you do it, a plastic bag is not the best approach - better would be a round rubbermaid container with a tight sealing lid.

    3. Power Blending
    Assuming you don't own expensive laboratory blending equipment, we're probably talking about a coffee grinder setup.

    Advantages: Automatic blending, hands free, and typically does a decent job of handling clumps.

    Disadvantages: Depending on the machine, it may actually do a particularly poor job of mixing powder below the level of the mixing blade. Test this for yourself by mixing powders of different color or adding some food coloring to the mix. Additionally, powder tends to stick to the side, and many models don't form a tight enough seal around the grinding compartment to keep powder from flying out.

    Bottom Line: Probably not the best method of mixing powders, by itself. When I used this method, I had to finish the mixing with another method. A lot depends, I'm sure on the particular model of grinder, so as always, your mileage may vary.

    4. Tumbling Systems
    Advantages: A very accurate method of mixing in a constantly rotating tube or cylinder, which uses gravity and friction to mix powder to a very high degree of completeness. With an automated system, like a rock tumbler (used for polishing rocks), this is all hands free and effortless.

    Disadvantages: The priciest of all the methods, if you acquire a machine. If you attempt to do it manually, perhaps by constantly turning a protein jug or other cylindrical container to mix your powder, your probably looking at one of the most time-consuming and labor intensive methods, unless you can devise some sort of contraption to do the work for you.

    Whitey's Mixing Method:
    If you're doing high volume work, invest in an automated blending or tumbling system. For those of you like me, looking for the best and easiest method, with minimal cost, here's my favorite method at the present time:

    It's a combination of mortar/pestle-geometric dilution and a shaking method. I start with a round, bowl-shaped rubbermaid container, with a tight-fitting lid. I pour my active compound in the bottom and a roughly equal amount of filler, and use the pestle from my mortar and pestle to thoroughly mix this and knock all the lumps out of the powder.

    Now, I use baking soda as a filler, so I know roughly how much I'll be adding to the cylinder for any given project. So, this step is inserted before adding the active compound to the graduated cylinder. And I like to mix about half the powder with the pestle, using geometric dilution - and give it a quick shake (with the lid on) for good measure before pouring in the cylinder and topping off with filler.

    Once I've got the powder measured for volume (65cc), I'll pour it back into my plastic mixing bowl - I can stir with the pestle for a bit, and then I always like to give it a good shake. Technically, I've used geometric dilution throughout the entire process, I get the benefit of friction and lump breaking from the pestle, and I've added shaking to the mix for good measure. I feel this method provides a very well-mixed powder, and it's very quick, easy, and clean. Feel free to use it if it works for you.

    Fillers:

    The best fillers are loose, dry powders, that aren't sticky and blend well with most powders. Some examples: baking soda (my favorite) and dextrose. In the past, I've used protein powder, but I find it to be harder to work with because there is too large a volume difference between its loose and packed states. Try to avoid powders with this property. Others have used corn starch, which seems a bit finer than a filler would be ideally, and corn meal, which might work pretty well, if you don't mind its appearance. I'll add in an appendix of this thread a list of commonly used fillers, as well as active compounds, with their approximate weight per Size 0 capsule.

    As we'll see in the next section, the less compressible a filler powder is, the greater our accuracy will be. You're welcome to use other powders, but if you use fluffy filler powders, you'll have more variability and will need to be careful not to get too aggressive when you settle the powder for measurement.

    Filling the Capsules:
    Again, let me encourage you to avoid sticky powders, fluffy powders, super-fine powders, or highly compressible powders like protein powder. They will decrease your accuracy in capping by adding variability in the filling process. It's also best to avoid tamping. Tamping is the packing down of powders, using a special tool to compress the powder inside the caps. Don't do this - it's totally unnecessary. All you want to do, really, is provide the same level of settling force (tapping the cylinder/capping unit on the counter or work surface) when you measure the powders and when you fill the caps. You're not going to be able to slam the tray down without the powder/caps flying out, so don't slam the cylinder down that hard either. Just good, solid taps do fine.

    Powders like baking soda are dense enough to reach a close to fully packed state just through settling, which is exactly what we want. Tamping, especially with the capsule machine mentioned in this thread is almost always counter-productive. It's an option if you end up with too much powder, but it tends to deform the caps, expanding them such that they have trouble when you join them and result in some broken and misjoined caps (a mess). It's much better to spend a little time using short, light taps - tapping the tray softly, but repeatedly, on your work surface. I aim to have all the caps settled and filled with 2 sets (at most, 3 sets) of tapping, with spreading inbetween. The more dense and free-flowing your filler powder is, the easier and faster this will be.

    Summary:
    1. Measure out your powder using Whitey's Volume Method
    a. Weigh your active compound (#mg/cap x 100)
    b. Pour into graduated cylinder
    c. Add filler to a fully settled volume of 65cc.
    2. Mix powder evenly using one of the powder mixing methods
    3. Fill capsules using tapping, not tamping, to settle the powder

  7. #7
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    Whitey's Recipe Guidelines for Injectables Using Traditional Solvents

    Some Frequently Asked Questions:
    --"What's a good recipe for X?"
    --"How much of hormone X can I get to hold?"
    --"Or how about a blend of X and Y, etc.?"

    This is a basic guide for elementary homebrewing, using basic compounds and solvents, that attempts to gather information in one place for easy reference, AND to provide the basic understanding behind the process so that recipes are no longer needed.

    For most recipes here, I have attempted to identify the upper range of a viable concentration for each compound. Occasionally, I have added guidelines where the concentration may hold, but be too high for comfort, but this varies from individual to individual, so use your own discretion. To my knowledge, the following will hold in a 2%BA/20%BB mix:*

    Testosterone:
    Propionate - 150mg/ml (200 will hold, but too painful to be useful)**
    Phenylpropionate - 150mg/ml
    Enanthate - 400mg/ml
    Cypionate - 300mg/ml (but cyp is finicky and can crash on you without warning, even at 250-275mg/ml, depending on powder quality.)***
    E/C Blend - 500mg/ml (may require a little extra care)***

    Trenbolone:
    Acetate - 150mg/ml (250 will hold, but too painful to be useful)
    Enanthate - 500mg/ml

    Drostanalone:
    Propionate - 150mg/ml
    Enanthate - 400mg/ml

    Boldenone:
    Propionate - 100mg/ml (watch the pain factor on short-ester boldenone )
    Undeclynate - 600mg/ml (may have a bite - Bold U powder often has some impurities from the nature of the manufacturing process which cause some knotting of the injection site)

    Nandrolone:
    Phenylpropionate - 150mg/ml
    Decanoate - 400mg/ml (but almost surely would hold fine at 500)

    Blends:
    Some examples of blends that will hold in a 2%BA/20%BB mix:
    (per 3ml)

    800 Test E/600 Deca
    600 Test E/400 Deca/500 Drostanolone E

    --You could add to this list forever, but the key here is that when you combine compounds, you should use the above concentration guidelines for the individual compounds, and note that you can probably get about 20-25% more hormone to hold when using multiple compounds. This is due to the overlap in molecular size and structure of the different compounds. A non-scientific way to think about this is they are not all competing for the same space in the solution.

    --Now, if you want to keep the blend relatively painless, sticking to the numbers above will usually lend a pretty smooth injection, especially on the long esters. Short esters tend to cause me some pain, but some individuals tolerate them pretty well. So let your own experience be your guide here. But just in case, here is a brief guide on what are probably some pain-free (or tolerable) concentrations for most people. This is here just for reference for novice brewers, and your mileage may vary.

    Testosterone:
    Propionate - 100mg/ml
    Phenylpropionate - 100-150mg/ml
    Enanthate - 300mg/ml
    Cypionate - 250-300mg/ml (crashing will be your only issue.)***
    E/C Blend - 400-500mg/ml

    Trenbolone:
    Acetate - 100-125mg/ml
    Enanthate - 300mg/ml

    Drostanalone:
    Propionate - 100mg/ml
    Enanthate - 300mg/ml

    Boldenone:
    Propionate - 100mg/ml or less
    Undeclynate - 300mg/ml (depending on powder purity, this number could be significantly higher)

    Nandrolone:
    Phenylpropionate - 100mg/ml
    Decanoate - 300-400mg/ml

    Preview of Advanced Recipes Using Alternative Solvents:
    Once you've mastered these concepts and techniques, it's time to go on to advanced brewing using alternative solvents. Here's a teaser:

    --Super high-concentration/low-volume injections (e.g. Test600, Deca600, Prop250)
    --Low-pain or pain-free
    --Thin mixtures, injectable with a slin pin
    --Using BA/BB + EO, perhaps Benzyl Salicylate or Guaiacol, depending on the compound
    --Plus the ability to make oil-based oral injectables - painless winny, for example

    Notes and General Guidelines:
    *Benzyl Alcohol (BA) and Benzyl Benzoate (BB) as percentages of total volume of final product. For simplified conversion instructions, see thread entitled Whitey's Easy Conversion Method.

    **For all short esters (acetate, prop, phenylprop), concentrations above 100mg/ml (with traditional solvents) begin to move closer to pain threshold in most people

    ***Some find the higher concentration long-ester injections to be painful. I do not, personally, but be warned. I also prefer to avoid cyp when possible - as mentioned, it can be a finicky compound and has caused quite a few homebrewers a bit of grief.

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